How do you protect and regenerate your skin after the negative effects of the sun?

Even the longest and most beautiful summer will come to an end one day. We will be left with memories of blue skies and scorching sun, and a tan on our skin. However, excessive sunbathing can also cause dryness and more wrinkles. Unfortunately, these are the effects of sunlight.

 

Sun radiation and photodamage to the skin

Although the same symptoms accompany natural ageing, the UV rays falling on the skin accelerate the process. It is, however, difficult to give up sunbathing because it does not only have a damaging effect. We need the sun for the biosynthesis of vitamin D, and scientific reports indicate that exposure to sunlight reduces the likelihood of osteoporosis (Węgłowska and Milewska 2011). Subjective issues, such as improved well-being or the effect of a tan on our self-esteem, cannot be overlooked. However, it should be remembered that excess is not desirable, especially as photodamage to the skin can be associated with serious health consequences. The relationship between skin pigmentation andphotoprotection is also not entirely clear (Brenner and Hearing, 2008). What is certain, however, is that too much UV radiation is always a health risk. An increase in UV dose can result from too much exposure, but also from an increase in radiation while on holiday in the mountains. Another reason may be the weakening of UV absorption by the atmosphere due to the occurrence of the “ozone hole”.

 

UVA UVA UVB UVC radiation

To better understand the risks, it is worth recalling that UV radiation is wavelengths in the range of 200 to 400nm and can be divided into three ranges:

– UVA 320-400nm,

– UVB 280-320nm,

– UVC 200-280nm

The UVC range of radiation is almost completely absorbed by the atmosphere and does not reach the Earth’s surface. Until recently, it was thought that the UVB range of radiation was the main culprit of skin damage. It is true that waves in the UVB range have higher energy and are therefore more damaging, but they penetrate the skin more shallowly than waves in the UVA range. The latter account for 95% of all ultraviolet radiation to which we are exposed. UVB radiation only penetrates the epidermis, causing excessive keratinisation of the skin, as well as an inflammatory reaction. It also has carcinogenic and mutagenic effects by damaging DNA. UVA penetrates deeper into the dermis and causes damage to collagen and elastin. This range of radiation also causes photo-toxic and photoallergic reactions (Ebisz and Brokowska 2015). Both UVA and UVB radiation contribute to the induction of oxidative stress, which is responsible for disrupting the proper functioning of cells and causing a variety of damage (Ichihashi et al. 2003). Most often, the changes induced by this radiation take many years to fully manifest themselves (Łastowiecka-Moras and Bugajska 2011).

 

How does hyperpigmentation occur?

The mechanism of damage to structural proteins (such as collagen) is manifold and includes a reduction in procollagen biosynthesis and more rapid collagen degradation via metalloproteinases. These changes result in an increase in the number and depth of wrinkles, and the skin becomes rougher. Healing processes are also more difficult. The accumulation of abnormal fibres, most often manifested in areas of the body particularly exposed to radiation, leads to characteristic changes often taking the form of deep furrows in a rhomboidal pattern, called “farmer’s neck” or cutis rhomboidalis nuchae.. Other signs of skin ageing include reduced skin elasticity, hypertrophic changes, as well as rough and dry skin. Pigmentation disorders such as pigmentation, discolouration and lentiginous spots also appear (Ebisz and Brokowska 2015).

 

How to counteract hyperpigmentation and photodamage?

Does this mean we should avoid the sun altogether? Of course not – we just need to seek a balance between the benefits and damage caused by the sun’s rays and seek help and support for our skin. Cosmetics can and should be our allies. Both those that protect us from excessive radiant energy and contain photoprotective ingredients, and those that soothe the skin under the influence of radiation with antioxidant properties. To protect yourself from the negative effects of sunlight, use Chantarelle day creams – all of which have UVA/UVB filters ranging from 20 to 55 SPF. Also boasting a unique filter is the rejuvenating and brightening eye cream SPF15 UVA/UVB with vitamin C 5% from the C’Modular Age range. And to rebuild your skin’s condition after summer, use products from the revolutionary Regenevia DNA line, an antioxidant, regenerating and rejuvenating line. The line works with algal stem cells, epigenetic Pentapeptide 48 and the power of marine specialties. For skin in need of hydration, the moisturising and regenerating line Nutri Maxx, based on the hydrating action of large- and small-molecule hyaluronic acid and bio-retinol – which stimulates renewal processes in the skin – is also ideal after summer. On the other hand, the C’Modular Age line, based on the powerful action of vitamin C, is excellent at dealing with hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C has a depigmenting, whitening and brightening effect. For larger and older pigmentation spots, chemical peels with Chantarelle’s kojic, citric, lactic, glycolic and pyruvic acids are recommended.

 

dr Marcin Wasylewski

CHANTARELLE Laboratory Derm Aesthetics expert

 

 

 

 

Literature:

• Brenner M, Hearing VJ. The protective role of melanin against UV damage in human skin. Photochemistry and photobiology. 2008 May;84(3):539-49.
• Ebisz M, Brokowska M. Harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on human skin. Hygeia Public Health. 2015;50:467-73.
• Ichihashi M, Ueda M, Budiyanto A, Bito T, Oka M, Fukunaga M, Tsuru K, Horikawa T. UV-induced skin damage. Toxicology. 2003 Jul 15;189(1-2):21-39.
• Łastowiecka- Moras E, Bugajska J. Natural UV radiation and premature ageing of human skin. Occupational safety: science and practice. 2011:8-10.
• Węgłowska J, Milewska A. Positive and negative effects of solar radiation. Post. Kosmet. 2011;2:93-7.