Vitamin D in cosmetics is a rather broad topic. In this article, we will cover a general overview of this topic using the example of the PDT Black Essential serum with vitamin D promoter. After many days without sunshine, we can develop a vitamin D deficiency in autumn and winter. It can also occur in people who avoid the sun all year round. This is often a valid assumption because UV radiation is not good for fair skin or reactive skin. What do we need vitamin D for and how do we make up for deficiencies regardless of the season?

 

Vitamin D in the human body

Vitamin D is the collective name for a group of steroidal compounds that are characterised by their fat solubility. They play an important role in the body by participating in various physiological processes, most importantly in maintaining normal bone function.

 

Their synthesis predominantly occurs in the skin from cholesterol derivatives under the influence of UVB radiation (wavelength 290-315 nm). These processes involve keratinocytes, which not only have the capacity to carry out Vitamin D biosynthesis, but are also involved in its further metabolism. Furthermore, keratinocytes themselves are subject to processes that are regulated by Vitamin D. These processes can be very diverse and include the proliferation of skin cells and their differentiation. This is linked to the barrier properties of the skin. Other skin functions that are regulated with vitamin D include immune-related issues, as well as the regulation of the hair follicle cycle. It is therefore obvious how important a role vitamin D plays in the body. Moreover, it is involved in a complex cycle of dependency and regulation.

 

Vitamin D receptors

The effect of vitamin D on the transformation of keratinocytes involving proteins responsible for cell adhesion such as loricrin and filaggrin is also indicated. Proteins responsible for vitamin D recognition are an important component of these regulations within the skin. They are also responsible for triggering the reactions and processes associated with its presence. These proteins are called vitamin D receptors (Vitamin D Receptor: VDR). Vitamin D receptors are found in various tissues and have a number of functions, both related to calcium and phosphate metabolism. They are also associated with the maintenance of normal bone structure and function, as well as cell proliferation and differentiation, and immune system function. For the synthesis of vitamin D, we need exposure to UVB radiation, which is limited in autumn and summer and in people who avoid the sun all year round. Therefore, many people can develop vitamin D deficiencies after the winter months and in people who avoid the sun. This leads to various negative effects also related to skin function. Vitamin D helps to regulate cell proliferation and differentiation and is helpful in protecting the skin from environmental factors.

 

Vitamin D in cosmetics

Unfortunately, the stability of vitamin D in cosmetic preparations is low. It is important to remember that the basis of health is to ensure that natural processes are carried out properly, but it is possible to support these processes through properly selected preparations. Such preparations, in the case of sun-deprived skin, can be extracts from the roots of a plant belonging to the Asteraceae family: Chicory traveller (Cichorium intybus L.). This plant has applications in herbal medicine, but recent scientific reports allow us to understand the action and exploit its potential even more fully. In a recently published study of 50 women, Cichorium intybus root extract was shown to have protective properties. It also improves the skin’s structure and strengthens its barrier function. Application of preparations containing Cichorium intybus root extracts reduced dry skin by lowering transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The study was conducted in comparison with a control group that used cosmetic preparations without active ingredients. It appears that the extract from the root of Cichorium intybus, has an action similar to vitamin D, and the improvement in skin parameters indicated above is due to this action. The active ingredients contained in the extracts are oligosaccharides. They have the ability to interact with Vitamin D receptors and activate metabolic processes.

 

Vitamin D promoter serum from the PDT Black Essential series

By using safe but highly effective treatments, we can strengthen our skin when it needs such help. These properties are possessed by the Chantarelle PDT Black Essential Serum Vitamin D Promoter treatment. Its action is enhanced by the effects of the low-energy PDT laser. This treatment is recommended for all skin types:

• with signs of ageing dry, rough,
• with wrinkles,
• with loss of proper density and elasticity,

It is particularly recommended in the absence or insufficient exposure to the sun.

 

dr Marcin Wasylewski

CHANTARELLE Laboratory Derm Aesthetics expert