Acids in home care

Cosmetic acids are very important for the condition of skin. Theyslough off old, superficial cells of the stratum corneum.Acceleratecellular renewal, rejuvenate and lighten age spots. Cosmetic acids can be found not only in scrubs, but also in foams, tonics, masks and creams.

How to use acids in home care

The use of acids in cosmetics helps to normalise the skin barrier and its pH. Acid therapy involves the use of cosmetics with a slightly acidic pH (4.2 – 5.5) in daily care, which allows the skin to maintain a healthy, natural pH. On the other hand, it is unfavourable if the skin has a long-term elevated pH (5.5 – 7.0). The secretion of lamellar granules is then inhibited. These contain enzymes and lipids, which will form a lipid barrier that fills the space between the corneocytes. This means that the skin does not have a good protective barrier, i.e. it can become too sensitive. In addition, prolonged increased skin pH can cause inflammation. Such processes are characteristic of many dermatoses. Normalising the pH is also a factor in supporting a healthy skin microflora. The use of cosmetics with acids regulates the pH to a healthy natural level (4.2 – 5.5), resulting in healthier, smoother and stronger skin.

What are the types of acids and what is their function?

Below are the positive effects of each acid on the skin and the Chantarelle products that contain each acid.

Glycolic acid, mandelic acid and citric acid (AHA acids)

These acids allow the top layer of dead skin cells to ‘separate’ and ‘release’ healthy cells to the epidermal surface. Removing dead skin cells improves skin texture and tone, unclogs clogged pores and increases the effectiveness of cosmetics.

Lactobionic acid and glucolactone (PHA acids)

Compared to AHA acids, they have additional softening and moisturising properties and strengthen the barrier function of the stratum corneum. In addition, they have anti-inflammatory properties. Clinical studies have shown that glucolactone does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight. Lactobionic acid provides deep and long-lasting hydration, which is important for skin with a damaged stratum corneum.

Salicylic acid (BHA acid)

Due to the presence of a phenolic group, salicylic acid has a keratolytic effect. Its most important action is its antiseptic and antibacterial effect. As this acid is fat-soluble, it is ideal for oily skin problems and for controlling sebum production.

Azelaic acid (AZA acid)

Azelaic acid is another good ingredient for oily, problematic skin and rosacea. It helps prevent and reduce inflammation, soothes and relieves redness and reduces swelling. It has research-proven efficacy: it destroys the bacteria that cause acne vulgaris and rosacea. It influences hyperactive melanocytes, thus lightening hyperpigmentation, cleansing pores and blackheads.

Chantarelle cosmetics – a home solution to skin problems

cosmetics	acid	skin type	application
Special Aesthetics . Rejuvenating cream with mandelic acid and gluconolactone 15% pH 4.0	mandelic acid, gluconolactone	skin with signs of ageing	overnight, daily or every other day
Sebumelan Holistic. Cleansing foam pH 4.5, normalising and brightening	Citric acid	problematic skin, hyperpigmentation and acne scars	day and night, daily or every other day
Sebumelan Holistic. Night cream pH 4.5 normalising and brightening	Citric acid	problematic skin, hyperpigmentation and acne scars	overnight, daily or every other day
Sebumelan Holistic. Enzyme peeling pH 4.5 with citric acid to normalise and brighten	Citric acid and enzymes	universal product for any skin	at night, once every 5-10 days depending on the sensitivity of the skin
Red Stop Couperose. SPF25 UVA/UVB day cream with PHA acids for vascular skin	Lactobionic acid, gluconolactone	vascular skin	overnight, daily or every other day
Red Stop Couperose. Night cream with PHA acids for vascular skin	Lactobionic acid, gluconolactone	vascular skin	overnight, daily or every other day
Red Stop Rosacea. Day cream SPF35 UVA/UVB with azelaic acid for skin with rosacea	Azelaic acid	sensitive skin, skin prone to rosacea	per day, daily
Red Stop Rosacea. Azelaic acid night cream for skin with rosacea	Azelaic acid	sensitive skin, skin prone to rosacea	at night, daily or every other day
Red Stop . Redness Reducing Concentrate	lactobionic acid, gluconolactone	vascular, sensitive skin	for day or night – under the cream, daily or every other day
Red Stop Rosacea. Soothing, cooling mask for skin with rosacea	Azelaic acid, lactobionic acid, salicylic acid	sensitive skin, prone to rosacea	for day or night, 1-2 times a week
Ideal Pure. Antibacterial lotion spray	Salicylic acid, gluconolactone	oily, acne-prone, inflammation-prone skin	day or night, daily before cream application
Ideal Pure. Gluco-Salic antibacterial night cream with BHA-PHA acids	Salicylic acid, gluconolactone	oily skin, acne prone to inflammation	at night, daily or every other day
Body Modelling & Care. Peeling no-rinse lotion with glycolic acid 10% pH 4.5, with squalane	glycolic acid	selected body parts in need of slimming, firming, cellulite reduction or stretch marks	daily or depending on the needs of the skin 2-3 times a week.
Body Modelling & Care. Regenerating and moisturising no-rinse scalp scrub with squalane and AHA acids	glycolic acid	various scalp problems	apply 1-2 times a week depending on the condition of the skin, do not rinse

How important is proper home care

Proper and regular home care is the basis of healthy and happy skin. And this affects the quality of the skin and its ability to cope with many dermatological and cosmetic problems. Chantarelle products are designed with all the safety rules that apply to cosmetic products for use at home. Chantarelle uses safe formulations with a non-aggressive pH and percentages allowed for home use. Chantarelle experts use the latest scientific knowledge of skin physiology and biochemistry to make cosmetic products as safe and effective as possible.

dr Khrystyna Shekhovtsova