What do we know about ceramides? Let’s learn about ceramides in advanced cosmetics

Ceramides are the building blocks of cell membranes, control metabolic processes and enable cellular exchange between the interior of cells and their surroundings. Ceramides are the main component of the intercellular cement. Their role is to bind the intercellular cement together and fill in gaps in the cement structure. In this way, they limit the evaporation of water from the lower layers of the skin (TEWL). They form an effective barrier to inhibit water loss. Let’s get to know them better.

 

Lipid barrier and ceramides

Ceramides are a subclass of lipid molecules, the simplest type of sphingolipids consisting of sphingosine and a fatty acid. Ceramides are an important lipid component of the cell membrane. They are one of the main components of the correct formation of the stratum corneum lipid barrier. Ceramides are the most important component of the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum. They are the basis of the lipid matrix – they account for half – 50% mol. of all lipids. Another common component is cholesterol – 20-35% mol. of all lipids. The remaining lipids are free fatty acids.

 

Ceramide synthesis

Ceramide precursors are synthesised in special granular organelles of keratinocytes called lamellar granules. Analysis of the lipid content of the granules has shown that they mainly contain phospholipids and sphingolipids (glycosphingolipids and sphingomyelins, which are then modified into ceramides) and free fatty acids. The main formation of lamellar structures occurs at the interface between the granular and keratinised layers of the skin.

 

Ceramides as cell cycle regulators

In the cell, ceramides act not only as a membrane element, but also as a signalling molecule. They are involved in cellular processes such as cell differentiation (cells of different types develop from unspecialised cells), cell proliferation (ability to proliferate) and apoptosis (i.e. suicidal cell death). Many skin barrier dysfunctions are associated with a decrease in ceramides in the skin or significant changes in their proportion. Therefore, topical application of ceramides to the skin can significantly improve the condition of the skin’s lipid barrier.

 

Ceramosides™ HP Complex

Ceramosides™ HP is a patented complex of ceramides – glycosphingolipids and glycolipids – with research-proven moisturising, firming and rejuvenating effects. Rich in Omega 3, 6 and 9 acids, the complex protects the skin from loss of elasticity and firmness, rebuilds the skin’s protective layer and improves its hydration. In addition, it tightens pores and visibly improves skin texture.

 

Naturally identical ceramides improve nutrition, hydration and rebuild the lipid barrier of mature and dry skin. They protect against moisture loss and the effects of external factors. They act as a highly effective anti-ageing shield for mature and tired skin.

 

Ceramides are key structural elements of the stratum corneum. Regular application of ceramides to the skin effectively rebuilds defects in the intercellular structure. Cosmetics based on glycosphingolipids and glycolipids provide high-quality anti-ageing protection for the skin. Chantarelle experts have developed, based on the advanced Ceramosides™ HP complex, the advanced Absolute Rich Moisture treatment for dry skin with a damaged lipid barrier.

 

dr Khrystyna Shekhovtsova

Chantarelle expert, dermatologist and aesthetic physician

 

 

 

Literature:

• Goni F M., Alonso A. Effects of ceramide and other simple sphingolipids on membrane lateral structure 2006 Biochem Biophys Acta 1758 (12) 1902-1921
• Ceramide: a simple sphingolipid with unique biophysical properties. Castro BM, Prieto M, Silva LC
• Geilen C.C., Wieder T., Orfanos C.E. Ceramide signaling regulatory role in cell proliferation,differentiation and apoptosis in humen epidermis. Arch Dermatol Res 1997 289 559-566
• Ceramides in Skin Health and Disease: An Update. Uchida Y, Park K.Am J Clin Dermatol. 2021 Nov;22(6):853-866
• The role of sphingolipid metabolism in cutaneous permeability barrier formation. Breiden B, Sandhoff K.Biochim Biophys Acta. 2014 Mar;1841(3):441-52.