AHA acids in layered treatments

What does the effectiveness of cosmetic preparations depend on? What is important is the open pathway for the delivery of active ingredients deep into the skin. In order to effectively deliver active substance molecules, it is therefore necessary to overcome the barrier that is the skin itself. Synergistic layered treatments with AHA acids help to achieve this.

Special reinforcing agents can disrupt the barrier function of the skin and thus allow the active ingredients of cosmetics to penetrate more deeply. These agents interact with the components of the outermost stratum corneum of the skin and also increase its permeability through the sebaceous and sweat glands. One of the more effective methods of affecting the skin barrier is through layered cosmetic treatments with acids. These are effective and safe enhancers of the penetration of active substances into the skin.

 

AHA acids as special agents to enhance the effectiveness of treatments

The skin’s corneocytes and lipids form a peculiar structure of bricks and the mortar that connects them. The lipid matrix consists of different types of ceramides (CER), fatty acids (FFA) and cholesterol (CHO). The transepidermal pathway for active substances is a temporary breach in the integrity of the lipid layers filling the space between the corneal scales. Gaps are created in the barrier for other water-soluble substances. The main function of AHA acids is to change the pH of the stratum corneum to a more acidic pH. Violation of the lipid layer with AHA acids occurs at two levels:

1. Corneodesmosomes – the acids affect the ionic bonds of the proteins of the stratum corneum.
2. Diphospholipid layer – there is a change in pH affecting enzyme function.

 

As amplifying agents, we use AHA acids that are not too low in pH and do not cause excessive exfoliation. It is therefore highly advisable to use peeling masks and other scrubs that have a gel consistency and a pH of at least 3.5. The gel is not immediately absorbed into the skin (in contrast to water-alcohol scrubs) and therefore has a gentler and more predictable effect. This allows for comfortable in-office working and full control over the treatment process.

Main effects of peeling masks or AHA acids as enhancing agents:

1. Stimulation of the regenerative powers of the skin.
2. Stimulation of the regenerative powers of the skin.
3. Weakening of the barrier properties of the stratum corneum.
4. Equilibrating the skin’s microsculpture to increase the bioactivity of biologically active substances during treatments.
5. Reduction of melanocyte activity (reduction and prevention of hyperpigmentation).
6. Reduction of inflammation.

A very effective factor in enhancing the effects of the treatments are Chantarelle’s innovative acid masks.

There are three options for applying Chantarelle masks:

1. Mask as a stand-alone refreshing treatment.
2. Mask as a scrub before the introduction of an active ingredient concentrate.
3. Mask as a scrub prior to the introduction of the active ingredient concentrate.
4. Mask as a pre-treatment.
5. Mask as a pre-peel, i.e. the 1st layer in a treatment with acids.
6. Mask as a peel before the introduction of a concentrate with active ingredients.

Peeling masks or AHA acids as enhancers are used alone in the treatment – before the application of the active ingredients for better penetration, but also as a preliminary stage, after which a peel proper, selected according to the skin’s needs, can be applied.

 

 

Layer peels – the perfect synergy of action

Suggestion	Step 1. Peeling masks (pre-peel)	Step 2. Peeling właściwy	Action
Dry skin	Special Aesthetics Mask with lactic acid 25% pH 3.5	Lactic acid 30% pH 3.5 40% pH 3.5 20% pH 1.7	-Removal of old keratinised scales from the skin surface contributes to faster renewal of cellular composition and enhancement of epidermal barrier function. – Stimulation of the reconstruction of the intercellular lipid layers of the stratum corneum.
Oily skin, prone to acne	Ideal Pure Mask with salicylic acid 32% pH 3.5	Azelaic acid 40% pH 2.8Mandelic acid 40% pH 1.5Pyruvic acid 55% pH 1.5 IDEAL PURE Salicylic acid + gluconolactone 20% pH 3.5%	– Reducing keratinocyte cohesion facilitates the clearing of clogged sebaceous ducts. – Exfoliation opens up the sebaceous glands and makes them accessible to other active ingredients that reduce sebum levels and have a bactericidal effect. – Reducing the likelihood of scarring. – Prevention and treatment of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Mature skin	Special Aesthetics Mask with glycolic and lactic acid 25% pH 3.4		Mature skin.	Lactic acid + mandelic acid 33% pH 1.4 Ferulic acid 40% pH 2.2 50% pH 1.8Pyruvic acid 55% pH 1.5	– Regulation of skin renewal – stimulation of basal keratinocyte proliferation. – Moisturising action. – Smoothing of the skin by increasing its hydration and stimulating the synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans.
Pigmented skin	Special Aesthetics Mask with glycolic and lactic acid 25% pH 3.4		Special Aesthetics.	Citric acid 55% pH 0.3 Azelaic acid 40% pH 2.8Ferulic acid 40% pH 2.2 50% pH1.8 Kojic acid + lactic acid 25% pH 1.6 Kojic acid + citric acid 50% pH 1.7	– Facilitates the penetration of whitening ingredients through the skin. – Direct whitening effect of some AHA acids (e.g. citric acid, kojic acid).
Sensitive, vascular skin	Special Aesthetics Mask with lactic acid 25% pH 3.5	Azelaic acid 40% pH 2.8 Lactobionic acid 50% pH 1.8	– Strengthening of the epidermal barrier function.

In each of the above regimens, we can add step 3 – the introduction of a concentrate with active ingredients from the chosen skincare line – depending on other skin needs.

 

100% treatment effect

After layered treatments, the skin becomes firmer and more elastic, the number of fine wrinkles and their severity are visibly reduced – the skin is smoothed and looks younger and fresher. In the epidermis, the AHA acids activate the exfoliation of dead cells and increase hydration. In the dermis, they influence the synthesis of the main elements of the extracellular matrix – collagen and glycosaminoglycans. The anti-inflammatory effect of AHA acids is due to their antioxidant properties and their effect on inflammatory mediators.

 

dr Khrystyna Shekhovtsova

Chantarelle expert, dermatologist and aesthetic physician