Acids for mature skin

Chemical peels with acids are treatments with proven effectiveness for mature skin. They are an ideal method for correcting the involutionary processes associated with skin ageing. 

 

How do acids work on mature skin?

Mature skin is characterised by wrinkles, rough texture, irregular pigmentation, sometimes also erythema and telangiectasias due to structural and functional changes. Following the application of a chemical peel, the top layer of the epidermis is exfoliated, which stimulates regenerative processes and leads to improved and rejuvenated skin. The difference is clearly visible after just a few treatments with acids.

Acids in anti-ageing treatments

Peeling changes the structure of the epidermis, giving it a more even distribution of melanocytes and melanin grains. The exfoliating action of a chemical peel ‘forces’ the skin to exfoliate old cells and replace them with new ones. Thus, it stimulates new epidermal growth and collagen renewal. With chemical peels, we support many anti-ageing processes in the skin, including:

• • renewal of the skin’s cellular composition through an exfoliating and proliferative effect on the basal cells,
  • facilitating the penetration into deeper skin layers of active ingredients contained in cosmetics,
  • moisturising effect and normalisation of the skin’s water balance,
  • smoothing the skin by increasing its hydration and stimulating the synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans,

 

Which acids are best for mature skin

Chemical peels are divided by their depth of action into superficial, medium and deep. Using a chemical peel at the correct skin depth is a key element in the effectiveness and safety of the treatment. The concentration of acids in cosmetics varies depending on the desired effect, skin type and individual tolerance to the exfoliation process.

Glycolic acid

This acid is obtained from sugar cane and has a small molecular size, so it penetrates the epidermal barrier faster than others. It stimulates collagen synthesis in the dermis, the deeper layer of the skin, activating fibroblasts and increasing the production of collagen and other extracellular matrix proteins. It has a versatile effect, smoothing the surface of the epidermis, lightening pigmentation, making the skin more hydrated and elastic. The increase in collagen production helps to improve skin firmness and shallow wrinkles. Glycolic acid peels have anti-inflammatory, keratolytic and antioxidant effects.

Lactic acid

An acid derived from milk or fermented plant derivatives. Known for its exfoliating properties and tolerance in sensitive yet ageing skin. Effectively stimulates collagen and elastin production, stimulates hydration and elasticity, smooths wrinkles, lightens spots and discolouration, smooths scars and stretch marks, regulates keratosis, cleanses and shrinks pores.

Citric acid

Obtained from citrus fruits. It has antioxidant properties and helps to improve skin texture and colour, which is important for changes associated with ageing. It improves skin parameters, promotes skin regeneration and rejuvenation, and reduces discolouration and wrinkles. Citric acid has a beneficial effect on the collagen of blood vessels, they become less fragile and more elastic.

Pyruvic acid

Is a natural component of the cellular structure of the living organism. It is involved in metabolic processes, in particular the breakdown of proteins, carbohydrates and fats. This explains the pyruvate peel’s such a gentle yet profound effect on the skin. It inhibits excess sebum secretion, has an antibacterial effect, reduces wrinkles, improves the elasticity and tone of the skin, lightens discolouration, evens out skin tone and gives the skin a radiant complexion.

Ferulic acid

Is the most common derivative of cinnamic acid. It is a powerful antioxidant, nullifying free radicals that cause cell damage and accelerated skin ageing, dehydration and wrinkles. This acid slows down photo-ageing, affects skin hydration, melanin levels and reduces skin erythema. Ferulic acid is now also thought to have an angiogenic effect by influencing the activity of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF). Chemical peels are truly ideal treatments for slowing down the skin ageing process. Their use is justified and the risk of complications is minimal. However, it is worth choosing the right acids for the skin problem in question in the first place.

 

dr Khrystyna Shekhovtsova

Chantarelle expert, dermatologist and aesthetic physician