Creams with UVA/UVB filters in Chantarelle cosmetics

The sun, although essential for life on Earth and so coveted by us, also brings various dangers. We can feel them on our own skin – and quite literally. The Chantarelle brand pays special attention to high photoprotection in the preparations used for day care/. All creams have high SPF protection – at least 20. Being aware of the potential damage to the skin, Chantarelle promotes the conscious enjoyment of the sun, not exposing oneself to accelerated photo-ageing of the skin and dangerous diseases.

 

 

Why should you protect your skin from the sun?

Overexposure to the sun and the ultraviolet radiation it contains can cause burns, as well as photo-ageing of the skin and serious diseases (1). Overexposure can result from our behaviour – too much sunbathing, but also outdoor activities. The intensity of the sun’s radiation can be increased by the reflection of rays off sand, water, as well as snow and ice. As altitude increases, the protection afforded to us by the atmosphere – becomes weaker and weaker. In the mountains, we are exposed to an increased dose of ultraviolet rays, which are the main cause of burns and diseases associated with exposure to light. In addition, environmental pollution contributing to the ozone hole increases the risks we are exposed to.

 

Types of UV radiation

In order to effectively protect yourself from the dangers, you need to know and understand them. Our parent star, the Sun, is a source of electromagnetic waves. Only part of these waves reach the Earth’s surface. Our eyes can only see a certain range: visible radiation, i.e. light (with a wavelength of about 400-800nm). Waves with shorter wavelengths but higher energy are ultraviolet radiation (UV), which we divide into ranges: UVA (320 to 400 nm), UVB (280 to 320 nm) and UVC (100 to 280 nm) (2). UVC radiation is the most dangerous, but is almost completely absorbed by the atmosphere. The UVB range causes burns and cancer and damages DNA. The UVA range makes up the majority of UV radiation (95%), penetrates glass and penetrates deeper into the skin cause the production of Reactive Oxygen Forms (ROSF). This is associated with damage to collagen and elastin in the skin leading to premature ageing. Our skin has mechanisms to protect itself from radiation by producing the pigment – melanin. However, this is insufficient and to protect the skin effectively we need support – protective substances, i.e. UV filters.

 

Sun filters

The degree of protection is determined by the parameter SPF (sun protection factor). Filters can be physical filters, so-called mineral filters, such as zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide (TiO2). Of these two substances, the latter is safer due to its durability and stability, and it is this that is used in Chantarelle preparations. The second, much more numerous class of UV-protective substances arechemical filters. Because of this multiplicity, questions and doubts arise as to which substances should be used for this purpose (3-5). Chantarelle’s anti-UV products use the compound octocrylene. It is a highly persistent substance (6) which, being a UVB and UVB filter, is characterised by an ultrafast photoprotective effect (7). In this way, with the right product, we can enjoy the sun while being protected from the damage its rays could cause us. Depending on the needs they aim to serve, preparations contain a single filter or a combination of both.

 

UV filters in Chantarelle cosmetics

In cosmetics, it is most common to find both types of filters at the same time – mineral and chemical – with SPFs ranging from 20 to 50. The latter value of SPF50 UVA/UVB is found, among others, in the Cover UV-protective cream from the Special Aesthetics line, which simultaneously has antibacterial, moisturising and regenerative effects. A special feature of this cream is its gentle and lightweight formula, thanks to which the product absorbs very well, which is not common with such a high SPF. Particular protection should be given to sensitive skin with symptoms of rosacea. Therefore, the day cream Red Stop Rosacea intended for this type of skin contains a high photostable SPF35 filter protecting against UVA/UVB radiation. Other active ingredients contained in this preparation, such as the antioxidant flavonoid Redlestine, vitamin C, plant extracts and Shea butter, also have a photoprotective effect. The Platinum Day Cream from the Platinum Peel & Cure line contains SPF50 UVA/UVB filters andfilter Infra IR. Infra IR filter, which gives special antioxidant protection against the effects of skin ageing caused by IR radiation, especially IR-A. This filter blocks the formation of free radicals under IR and blue light, protects mitochondrial DNA, stops the photo-ageing process, and protects the skin from loss of density under sun exposure and urban pollution.

 

 

Dr Marcin Wasylewski. Chantarelle brand expert

 

 

 

 

Literatura:

1, Skotarczak K, Osmola-Mańkowska A, Lodyga M, Polanska A, Mazur M, Adamski Z. Photoprotection: facts and controversies. Eur Rev Med Pharmacol Sci. 2015;19(1):98-112

2. Endres L, Breit R. Jordan W, Halbritter W. UV Radiation, Irradiation and Dosimetry. Dermatological Phototherapy and Photodiagnostic Methods 2009; pp. 3-59.

3. lodén M, Beitner H, Gonzalez H, Edström DW, Akerström U, Austad J, Buraczewska-Norin I, Matsson M, Wulf HC. Sunscreen use: controversies, challenges and regulatory aspects. Br J Dermatol. 2011 Aug;165(2):255-62

4. Maslin DL. Do sunscreens protect us? Int J Dermatol. 2014 Nov;53(11):1319-23

5. Maier T, Korting HC. Sunscreens – which and what for? Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2005 Nov-Dec;18(6):253-62

6. Hopkins ZR, Snowberger S, Blaney L. Ozonation of the oxybenzone, octinoxate, and octocrylene UV-filters: Reaction kinetics, absorbance characteristics, and transformation products. J Hazard Mater. 2017;338:23-32

7. Baker LA, Horbury MD, Stavros VG. Ultrafast photoprotective properties of the sunscreening agent acetocrylene. Opt Express. 2016;24(10):10700-9