Dry facial skin? Meet moisturising hyaluronic acid

Dry facial skin is a serious problem and a challenge in daily skincare. Dry skin is often flaky, itchy, tight and causes great discomfort. One of the most effective active ingredients as a remedy for dry skin is hyaluronic acid.

 

Hyaluronic acid – properties

Hyaluronic acid is a saccharide that is a derivative of the basic sugar in our body, glucose. It belongs to the glycosaminoglycans and is a heteropolymer composed of alternating units of glucuronic acid and N acetyl glucose amine.

In the body, it occurs as molecules with masses ranging from 100 kDa to 10 MDa. This means that they contain hundreds to hundreds of thousands of repeating disaccharide units. Hyaluronic acid together with other glucosaminoglycans and connective tissue fibre-forming proteins are the main components of the extracellular matrix in all tissues. An important function of glycosaminoglycans, including hyaluronic acid, is to bind water. In the case of the skin, ensuring adequate water content involves both the barrier function of this tissue and manifests itself in the outward appearance of the skin. With age, the level of synthesis of hyaluronic acid decreases, which is associated with a decrease in the hydration of the skin and a deterioration of the mechanical performance, which in turn results in reduced elasticity and the formation of wrinkles (Papakonstantinou et al. 2012). The decrease in hyaluronic acid content occurs primarily in the epidermis, but a change in its molecular weight is also observed (Longas et al. 1987). Being able to replenish the pool of hyaluronic acid, and thus restore the skin to its proper parameters and youthful appearance, is of utmost importance. Injectable aesthetic medicine treatments offer such opportunities, but they also carry risks, so the ability to deliver hyaluronic acid through the skin in a non-invasive manner is highly desirable.

 

Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics

Scientific findings indicate that hyaluronic acid can be absorbed from the skin surface, transported through the epidermis and deposited in the deep layers of the skin, and this applies not only to low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, but also to one with a moderate molecular weight of about 360 kDa (Brown et al. 1999). Other studies have demonstrated the rejuvenating and anti-wrinkle potential of hyaluronic acid with masses ranging from 50 to 2 MDa, although a simple molecular weight dependence of the effect has not been demonstrated (Pavicic et al 2011). The research presented here confirms the efficacy, as well as the safety, of cosmetic preparations containing hyaluronic acid in counteracting the symptoms of skin ageing. This allows us to provide our skin with effective rejuvenating and effective moisturising therapies.

 

Hyaluronic acid for dry facial skin in Chantarelle cosmetics

Hyaluronic acid is found in many CHANTARELLE brand treatments and dermocosmetics. Its valuable properties are used in, among others, the line:

• Nutri Maxx
• Estrini 50+
• Regenevia DNA
• Platinum Peel & Cure

The formulations use hyaluronic acid with different particle sizes from ultra-low molecular weight 5 kDa (ULMW) to multi-molecular weight 1 MDa. This allows it to penetrate to different levels of the skin, hydrating it deeply and forming an occlusive layer.

 

Dr Marcin Wasylewski 

CHhantarelle Laboratory Derm Aesthetics expert

 

 

 

Literatura:

– Brown TJ, Alcorn D, Fraser JR. Absorption of hyaluronan applied to the surface of intact skin. Journal of investigative dermatology. 1999 Nov 30;113(5):740-6. – Longas MO, Russell CS, He XY. Evidence for structural changes in dermatan sulfate and hyaluronic acid with aging. Carbohydrate research. 1987 Jan 15;159(1):127-36. – Papakonstantinou E, Roth M, Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-oendocrinology. 2012 Jul 1;4(3):253-8. – Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, Schwach-Abdellaoui K, Malle B, Korting HC, Farwick M. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology:JDD. 2011 Sep;10(9):990-1000.