The ABC of antioxidants and antioxidant cosmetics

One of the most plausible theories on skin ageing is that it is damaged by reactive oxygen species, i.e. due to oxidative stress. This theory first emerged in the 1950s, when the first studies were carried out specifically pointing to reactive oxygen species as a direct cause of skin ageing.

 

Antioxidants – what do we know about them?

Not all of us are aware that reactive oxygen species, the so-called ROS, also have a positive effect on our body. In contrast, excessive ROS activity or reduced natural antioxidant defences cause damage or adverse changes in our body. Such a phenomenon is referred to as oxidative stress. To combat the excessive activity of reactive oxygen species, compounds called antioxidants or antioxidants, antioxidants are recommended. The media has been heavily promoting the use of antioxidants for years and so their range has grown enormously over the past six decades. It is a large and diverse market affecting the medical, cosmetic and food industries.

Many years ago, synthetic antioxidants were massively introduced into cosmetics and food products to guarantee safety and prolonged shelf life and efficacy. Unfortunately, the last two decades of research have shown that synthetic antioxidants are more dangerous than natural substances. It has also emerged that cosmetic and food manufacturers have repeatedly used too high concentrations of synthetic antioxidants, resulting in undesirable side effects. Of course, it was possible to carry out additional safety tests, but these were so costly that it was mainly decided to use natural antioxidants, which carry a significantly lower risk of side effects.

 

Vitamin E

Currently, tens of thousands of natural substances are used that have antioxidant properties. One of the most commonly used compounds is vitamin E – in its various forms. The most common form of it is tocopherols. These natural antioxidants are mainly found in plant oils and most plant products. A very rich natural source of vitamin E is soybean oil, which contains a relatively high concentration of mixed tocopherols. Vitamin E is available in Chantarelle brand lines, including: Superior Youth Boost, Red Stop, Exo Lift, Nutri Maxx and in many others.

 

Vitamin C

Another potent antioxidant is ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It is one of the most widely used substances, both in cosmetology and medicine. It is found in various forms, the most common being ascorbic acid monophosphate sodium salt also known as – SAP. This powerful antioxidant offers many valuable properties. It can be used both topically on the skin and orally. Water-soluble vitamin C, like vitamin E, has a broad antioxidant effect. Ascorbic acid is also an effective quencher of reactive oxygen species – ROS. Its great advantage is also its anti-pigmentation and skin-brightening effect. Due to its numerous cosmetic properties, it has been used in Chantarelle cosmetics in the lines: Agemelan Holistic, Red Stop, C’Modular Age and the PDT Black Essential treatment with vitamin C.

 

Azelaic acid

Azelaic acid is an organic chemical compound that belongs to the dicarboxylic acid group. It occurs naturally in cereal grains. It is an important component of the phospholipids found in our body’s cell membranes. It is commonly used in anti-acne preparations. It is used in professional cosmetic lines for its bacteriostatic, brightening and antioxidant effects. Azelaic acid contributes to the process of ‘scavenging free radicals’ that contribute to skin inflammation. The great advantage of azelaic acid is that there is no risk of phototoxic or photoallergic reactions. This means that it can be used even during periods of strong sunlight. Azelaic acid is available in the cosmetic lines M-acids, Red Stop and Ideal Pure.

 

Shea butter

Shea butter is a vegetable oil that is extracted from the Shea tree, also known as Butter Parka. According to African beliefs, it is a sacred tree and it is for this reason that thousands of years ago the oil from its seeds was first used for skin care. Shea butter contains mainly monounsaturated oleic acid and saturated steric and palmitic acid. It also contains numerous phytoestrogens and vitamins A and E. Shea butter has a strong antioxidant effect. It forms a characteristic film on the skin, which protects the skin from UVB radiation. It also has a soothing and moisturising effect, but does not leave the skin feeling greasy. Shea butter also improves the elasticity of the epidermis and has an antibacterial effect. The Chantarelle brand uses Shea butter in most of the creams of all its lines.

 

Liquorice extract

Louquorice extract extracted from the root of this plant is one of the most potent natural antioxidants in the world. Its properties are ensured by a high concentration of glycyrrhizinic acid and calcium and potassium salts. Liquorice extract has a soothing effect on the skin after excessive UV radiation and stops the formation of hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme that has a disruptive effect on skin pigmentation. Liquorice extract is very often used in anti-inflammatory preparations. The substances contained in the extract have been shown to act similarly to corticosteroid hormones that reduce inflammation. Preparations containing liquorice extract also have a regulating effect on sebum levels in the skin, while also alleviating numerous dermatoses and skin allergies. Liquorice extract is available in products from the Plant Plasma, Special Aesthetics and Estrini 50+ lines.

 

Polyphenols

Polyphenols are chemical compounds that are effective antioxidants. They are a very broad group that vary in structure and biological properties. The polyphenols group includes many substances. These include organic acids derived from dihydroxybenzoic acid and dihydroxycinnamic acid, as well as flavone derivatives and the flavonoid group. The polyphenol group also includes lignan derivatives, catechins, anthocyanins, coumarins, lignans and many other substances. Polyphenols can be found primarily in many fruits, vegetables and plants. The most commonly used polyphenol-containing plants include green tea, cocoa, chokeberries, cranberries, blueberries, grapes, apples, cabbage, garlic and many others. In addition to their antioxidant properties, many polyphenols have anti-inflammatory, firming, moisturising and sebum-regulating effects on the skin. Polyphenols are present in all Chantarelle brand lines.

 

Algae mother cells

Ephemer™ – ephemeral algal cells – a discovery of modern cosmetology with exceptional rejuvenating power. Obtained using the world’s first cell culture technology reproducing the natural conditions of the oceans. The innovative culture method makes it possible to capture their best properties for skin renewal, which are ephemeral in ocean conditions. They protect against oxidative damage stimulate the synthesis of ‘longevity’ enzymes – SIRT1.

•  They provide cells with energy for powerful revitalisation.
• Act as an immediate and long-lasting antioxidant.
• Improve energy metabolism and stimulate regeneration.

 

City Guard™

Antioxidant seawater formula with oligoalginates and biopterin. Oligoalginates form a protective film against the penetration of aggressive environmental pollutants, while biopterin from marine microalgae stimulates ATP energy synthesis and strengthens the structure of the collagen network. In under-eye skin care, it reduces dark circles and puffiness. Extracted under Arctic stress conditions.

 

 

Remember that the main contributor to increased ROS activity in our skin is UVA and UVB radiation. Despite the very strong antioxidant properties of many substances, it is important to remember adequate photoprotection in the form of UV filters applied throughout the year.