Year-round acids for vascular skin, with symptoms of rosacea, sensitive skin

Acids used in chemical peels are a growing and increasingly diverse group of chemical compounds. Their action is sometimes diverse and goes beyond exfoliation of the epidermis. Familiarising yourself with these substances will allow you to choose the best compositions and appropriate acid treatments for your problem, skin type and season. So-called “year-round acids” such as azelaic acid, lactobionic acid and gluconolactone can also be used in summer.

 

Acids for difficult skin care

The main, but not the only, group of acids are carboxylic acids, and this includes hydroxy acids. Increasingly, polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), including bionic acids (ABA, bionic acids), are attracting attention among cosmetic products (Yu and Van Scott, 2002). Their characteristic feature is the presence of a sugar or sugar derivative. These substances are physiological and exhibit actions such as modulating keratinolysis and affecting the synthesis of skin components. They improve the condition of the skin in a variety of skin disorders including changes associated with skin ageing – both physiological and dependent on external factors such as exposure to sunlight. Many of the acids used in peels, especially PHAs and ABAs, have antioxidant effects, beneficial especially for sensitive skin and protective against oxidative stress caused by UV exposure. Due to their various properties, PHA and ABA acids are often referred to as the new generation hydroxy acids. Azelaic acid is often included in this group, although it is not a hydroxy acid. Its action normalises keratinisation, shows antibacterial activity and inhibits melanogenesis. The metabolic action of a number of acids is usually due to their involvement in important metabolic pathways. Gluconic acid and gluconolactone are important substances in the pentose pathway, an important metabolic pathway providing reducing equivalents and pentoses. These compounds are key in the synthesis of glucosaminoglycans (GAGs) (Murray and Keeley 2000) physiologically important substances, but also as important active ingredients in drugs and cosmetics.

 

Gluconolactone as a year-round acid for sensitive skin

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid that is formed by the oxidation of glucose. It is produced by traditional fermentation or by biotechnological methods (Satory et al. 1997, Miyamoto et al. 2000). It is an important nutrient for cell renewal and a natural antioxidant that effectively fights free radicals and enhances the skin’s repair mechanisms (Tasic-Kostov et al. 2012a), defence and protection against the effects of ultraviolet radiation and environmental pollutants. It also acts as a chelator, i.e. it binds metal ions. It is a potent moisturiser, helping to maintain the skin’s normal natural hydration balance (Tasic-Kostov et al. 2012b). It is recommended for hypersensitive skin (prone to allergies), excessively dehydrated skin and acne rosacea as well as acne vulgaris in very dry and sensitive skin, and to accelerate the renewal of the epidermis after laser treatment. It has no irritant properties and can be used on very sensitive skin. Reduces the risk of sunburn. It increases the barrier function of the stratum corneum (Elias and Wakefield 2010), increases epidermal hydration, accelerates cell regeneration, regulates metabolism, reduces transepidermal water loss and skin sensitivity to irritation, thus inhibiting the skin’s ageing process, improving skin texture, firmness and smoothness. Strengthens the skin’s resistance to external irritants.

 

Lactobionic acid also for vascular skin

Lactobionic acid belongs to the group of polyhydroxy acids and is a combination of gluconolactone and galactose. Like other hydroxy acids, it has slightly exfoliating properties. It is devoid of irritant properties, so it can be used for sensitive and dry skin, including vascular skin with erythema. It has important properties for the topical treatment of telangiectasia (dilated blood vessels) and rosacea. It is characterised by strong antioxidant properties and fights free radicals. Inhibits the action of metalloproteinases of the extracellular space of the epidermis, thus preventing the formation of wrinkles (Rona 2004), telangiectasias, skin laxity. It enhances repair mechanisms (by stimulating collagen synthesis) and provides protection against the effects of UV radiation. It has a unique property of binding water and forming a protective layer on the surface of the skin, which makes the skin smooth and soft, strengthening the protective function of the epidermal barrier.

 

Azelaic acid for hyperpigmentation, inflammation, for sensitive and even oily skin

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic nine-carbon acid. It is formed by the peroxidation of linoleic and linolenic acids found in the cell membrane. By inhibiting a number of enzymes, this acid has bleaching properties (Mazurek and Pierzchała 2016). These properties are due to azelaic acid’s ability to inhibit DNA synthesis of stimulated melanocytes and its cytotoxic properties towards hyper-reactive pigmented cells. The popularity of brightening treatments with azelaic acid both alone and in combination therapy is linked to these properties (Kakita and Lowe 1998). It reduces skin hyperpigmentation (mainly osteoids and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) and that resulting from rosacea lesions. A significant reduction in inflammation (papules and pustules) and redness and erythema is achieved. It does not cause phototoxic or photoallergic reactions, so can also be used in summer. Azelaic acid also has an antibacterial effect (even with long-term use), an anti-epidermal effect and normalises the keratinisation process. It has anti-inflammatory properties – acts as a scavenger of free radicals that activate inflammatory processes. Recommended for irritated skin with erythema, also for oily skin. The effects of azealinic acid, lactobionic acid and gluconolactone have been used in the treatment RED STOP Couperosa & Rosacea Sensitive Skin. These acids can be used year-round with appropriate sun protection, i.e. after application, do not sunbathe but protect the skin with a high UVA/UVB sunscreen. With appropriate UV protection, treatments with these acids are fully safe in the summer season even for sun-sensitive skin. Treatment with PHA-AzA acids is also recommended for reactive, dry, excessively dehydrated skin that does not tolerate other acids well.

 

Dr Marcin Wasylewski. CHANTARELLE brand expert

 

 

 

Literatura

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