Water circulation in the skin – the complex process of hydration

Every living cell in the human body contains an aqueous solution of various components. Water actively participates in chemical reactions, supplies nutrients to cellsk, and removes toxins. The dermis, which is the body’s water store, contains about 70-80% of it. Tonly well-hydrated skin can be healthy and youthful, so it is extremely important that the amount of wateris stable and it is important to hydrate the skin properly. 

 

Water balance in the skin

A proper water balance in the skin is responsible for the proper functioning of the following processes:

• • subcutaneous microcirculation
  • fibrillar proteins and glycosaminoglycans in the dermis
  • water exchange between dermal layers of the epidermis
  • transepidermal water loss TEWL
  • exfoliation processes of the epidermis
  • exfoliation of the epidermis
  • hydrolipid mantle (pH)

 

In the dermis, blood vessels carry not only nutrients and important elements for our skin, but also water. The exchange of fluid between the capillaries and the dermis is controlled by changes in tissue pressure. Therefore, in cosmetic treatments for balanced hydration, it is very important to carry out a series of measures to influence the correct microcirculation. The condition of the dermis is responsible for the elasticity and resilience of the entire skin tissue. It is the disruption of processes in the dermis that leads to dry skin, loss of firmness, wrinkles and other problems.

Glycosaminoglycans and fibrillar proteins are responsible for maintaining water balance in the dermis. Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are a group of chemical compounds – polysaccharides. They play a major role in cell signalling, as well as in the regulation of cell growth, proliferation, antithrombotic effects and wound healing. Fibrillar proteins include collagen and elastin. Collagen is responsible for the strength and resilience of the skin, elastin for its elasticity. The main component of collagen is hhydroxyproline, which accounts for about 13.5% of all collagen in mammals. Hydroxyproline is of great importance for the mechanical strength of collagen.

ABSOLUTE Rich Moisture for intensive skin hydration

The ABSOLUTE Rich Moisture line was developed for very dry, rough and tight skin. The cosmetics of this line contain many valuable substances and are aimed at regenerating the hydrolipid barrier, increasing the skin’s water reserves and stimulating repair mechanisms for the effective reduction of wrinkles, the recovery of elasticity and a healthy glow. The cosmetics contain the ingredient Ultra-Lift Hydroxyproline – hydroxyproline vector, which has a triple anti-wrinkle, firming and moisturising effect. It plays a key role in the synthesis and stability of collagen, reduces deep wrinkles and micro-wrinkles resulting from skin dehydration. It increases the skin’s ability to bind water, and inhibits the action of MMPs – enzymes responsible for the skin’s ageing process. Another ingredient, the intensive moisturising complex Trimoist™ KMF – contains lamellar lipids that strengthen the skin barrier, film-forming polysaccharides that protect against water loss (TEWL) and humectants that mimic Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF). And the Trimoist™ KMF found in Trimoist™ KMF karnosine prevents collagen and elastin from binding through glycation. All this strengthens the dermis and improves its condition.  

Water exchange in the skin

Aquaporins, also known as water channels, are channel proteins that form pores in the membrane of biological cells, facilitating the transport of water between cells. Aquaporins are able to selectively bind water molecules and thus allow them to pass through and prevent other molecules from entering.

Water-lipid barrier

The skin’s water-lipid barrier consists of cholesterol, ceramides and unsaturated fatty acids (Omega-3, Omega-6). Violation of the stratum corneum lipid barrier (through changes in lipid composition, structural changes, its destruction) is one of the most common causes of dry skin. The main indicator of barrier destruction will be an increase in the rate of transepidermal water loss TEWL. As a result, the living layers of the epidermis and dermis start to lack water with all the consequences such as slowing down of metabolism, inability to regenerate quickly, formation of wrinkles, etc. Stabilising the TEWL index is therefore the first and most important element of skin care. The ABSOLUTE Rich Moisture line contains Ceramosides™ HP – a unique, patented complex of ceramides, glycosphingolipids and glycolipids with research-proven moisturising, firming and rejuvenating effects. It contains 77% Omega acids 3,6,9. Plant-derived ceramides, identical to natural ceramides, rebuild the skin’s protective layer, enhance hydration and nutrition and rebuild the skin’s lipid barrier. Ceramosides™ HP also protects the skin against moisture loss (TEWL) and against harmful external factors. Ceramosides™ HP thus has biomimetic properties, i.e. its action mimics the natural functions of the epidermis. Lipids lamellar contained in the previously mentioned Trimoist™ KMF complex also improve the barrier function of the lipid layer.

Exfoliating the epidermis to improve skin condition

Water has been found to be crucial for the activity of enzymes responsible for exfoliating the stratum corneum. There is approximately 12-15% water in the stratum corneum. If the water content is lower than 12%, the skin is considered dry. We then observe roughness and flakiness of the skin. Gentle enzyme or peptide peels can aid this process. At the same time, the NMF, which is responsible for the percentage of water in the stratum corneum, must be taken care of. The Trimoist™ KMF complex in the ABSOLUTE Rich Moisture line contains humectants that mimic Natural Moisture Factor (NMF). In contrast, the hydrating peptide Peel-Booster from this line regulates hyperkeratosis processes. The peel ingredient – Perfection Peptide is a biomimetic tripeptide encapsulated in liposomes that accelerates and reactivates the natural exfoliation and cell renewal process. It effectively removes dead epidermis by breaking the bonds between corneocytes – dead epidermal cells – preventing them from adhering. As a result, they lose contact with neighbouring cells and undergo exfoliation.

The hydrolipid mantle of the skin

The skin has a protective acid mantle – the so-called hydrolipid mantle, which consists of sebum, sweat, lipids, amino acids and keratinised cells, i.e. it forms the microflora of the skin. It is formed by the sebaceous and sweat follicles. It protects the skin from dryness, pathogens and environmental pollution. It has a slightly acidic pH, which may vary slightly depending on age, gender or body area. Frequent washing with alkaline soap destroys the acid mantle, but it can be regenerated. In the ABSOLUTE Rich Moisture line, maximum support for this protective layer of the skin and for skin hydration is already achieved at the cleansing stage thanks to non-aggressive surfactants and pH normalisation (optimal toning).

Water balance in the skin

The correct water balance of the skin is maintained by two processes:

• diffusion of water into the dermis through the walls of blood vessels
• water evaporation through the epidermis
• With effective cosmetic treatments and appropriate care, we support the correct skin processes and help to keep the skin looking young for as long as possible.

 

dr Khrystyna Shekhovtsova

 Chantarelle expert, dermatologist and aesthetic physician